Kerry Marie Wong, M.D., R.Ph.

Black Skin Care Tips

As a resident physician in dermatology and a registered pharmacist, I feel obligated and enthusiastic to dispel common myths and impart common sense regarding basic skin care for black skin. Though I apologize that I cannot name all the ethnic groups that encompass those who possess "black skin", I would like to highlight the features that unify us! We must also keep in mind the tremendous ethnic diversity that exists in every one of us regardless of the "category" we fall under. I recently checked the box "African-American" on the census, though to be exact I am 5/8 th Jamaican and 3/8 th Chinese! Well anyway, here are five valuable skin care tips I've learned after a decade in the health care business!

Black skin can sunburn. Though we have more protective melanin (pigment in the skin), black skin can range from Fitzpatrick skin type II (usually bums, rarely tans) to Fitzpatrick skin type VI (very darkly pigmented). Our skin also shows signs of photoaging (sun damage) though less so than our fairer-skinned brothers and sisters (especially white skin). Regardless of how dark our skin is, we should protect it from the sun by avoiding intense sunlight (between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.), wearing protective clothing, and covering all exposed skin with broad-spectrum sunscreen.

People with black skin can get melanoma (skin cancer). Though our risk of melanoma is much less than our white brothers and sisters, we need to examine all of our skin surface, especially hands (palms), feet (soles), nails, and mucous membranes, A type of melanoma called acral lentiginous melanoma is the kind most likely to occur in dark-skinned individuals. Follow the "ABCD" skin surveillance program. See your dermatologist if a pigmented lesion on your skin exhibits A for asymmetry, B for irregular borders, C for variety of colors in the same mole, changes in D for diameter or E for elevation of a mole.

Be gentle to your hair. More and more black people are wearing their hair natural. Whether your hair is natural or chemically processed, be aware that your scalp needs special care as well. A particular problem I've seen in the hair and scalps of many black patients is seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff). This problem can be related to a yeast on the scalp as well as infrequent washing. Patients often treat "dry" scalp with oils which exacerbate the process. Consider trying a dandruff shampoo instead, followed by a good conditioner. If oils still need to be used, apply them as sparingly as possible. If a dermatologist or other physician prescribes a liquid to be used in the scalp, don't be afraid to explain any limitations you may have regarding your particular hairstyle(for example, being unable to get your hair wet everyday). There are other vehicles, such as, foams that are availiable.

Dry skin needs moisture. Atopic dermatitis (eczema that runs in the family and is related to your genetic composition) is common in black skin. Although there is no cure (it's programmed in your DNA), it can be controlled. Use a mild soap without fragrance or dyes, and bathe in lukewarm (not hot) water! Always apply a moisturizer after bathing. Creams are better than lotions, but you may need an ointment (like petroleum jelly) if your skin is really dry.

Any break in the skin may leave behind a dark spot. This problem is especially problematic in black skin. It is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and occurs commonly after acne, eczema or infections of the skin. It can also occur after trauma to the skin (scrapes and bums). The best treatment is to get the underlying process under control to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from occuring. However, to treat pre-existing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation there are bleaching creams that can be prescribed to help lighten the dark spots. It is important to know that the bleaching creams work very slowly, and that the dark spots will usually fade over time anyway.

Well, these are my five favorite tips to share with you. Darker skin will provide you with greater protection from wrinkling and common skin cancers (such as basal and squamous cell carcinoma) compared to our fairer (white) friends. Please love and protect your beautiful black skin!

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